The Wines of the Piemonte
Steep hills. Baking heat. A haze of dust and smoke which obscures the beautiful vistas from picturesque hilltop towns. This is the Piemonte region of Italy, and some of its wines are among the country's, perhaps even the world's, best.
This is Barolo country, a wine that enjoyed international renown long before the Super Tuscans became trendy. But it is also Barbaresco country, a wine that has come into its own in the last century and is similar to Barolo. In fact, Slow Food's Wine Atlas of the Langhe points out that the regulations for the two wines are virtually identical; it is their location in Piedmont which distinguishes them.
But it is above all a land of farmers, and they work the land and reap what profits they can. Wine is the beverage of choice, but even here at their source, Barolos and Barbarescos are special treats. The more common wine on osteria tables is Barbera d'Alba, or Dolcetto, or even plain Nebbiolo, the latter made from the same grape as the region's regal representatives but lacking the finesse of classic Barolo and Barbaresco. Indeed, even though we were staying 2 kilometers from the picturesque town of Barolo itself, it was the region's less prestigious wines which accompanied our meals.
But that didn't stop us from tasting the majestic wines as we visited wine makers throughout the region.
These are delicious wines, no two ways about it. Of course, many Barolos and Barbarescos are being made to what is often called "international style" in the general public and "Parker style" by cynical observers of the wine trade. The name comes from Robert Parker, the noted wine critic whose high ratings guarantee the makers a hefty profit as rabid American devotees flock to the store to buy the wines.
Barolo and Barbaresco are powerhouses, best drunk at least a decade after the vintage on the bottle, but with the capability to age very well. In fact, Melissa and I bought ourselves a bottle of the 1998 vintage so that we can open it at our five-year anniversary.
The other wines of the region go down easily even while young: a 2000 Barbera d'Alba was the red wine we served at our wedding feast. But even these simpler wines possess a notable complexity, one that keeps your nose and mouth guessing each time you bring the glass to your lips.
It seems that every wine maker diversifies. Visit one, and you'll find yourself sampling both simple Dolcettos and stunning Barolos. Grape growers own small chunks of prestigious vineyards, just as in Burgundy, and so they make what Barolos they can and fill out their inventories with the simpler wines that nonetheless sell well to the regional consumers.
A fortunate thing, too. A freak hailstorm just before harvest in 2002 wiped out most of the region's Barolo vineyards. This is an unbelievable loss in so many ways: these wine makers rely on the income from the scant rows of Nebbiolo grapes they own in prestigious Barolo vineyards. For many of them, this year will represent a downward spike in their livelihoods, a frightening event when you live close to the bone as many farmers do. Even when their crops are worth so much.
Many wine drinkers do not think of the people who put the bottle on their table. For them, this will mean a lost vintage, a disappointment that they will not be able to stock their cellars with the 2002's. But many of us will hope the best for the farmers and families who grow these grapes. May 2003 be the best vintage yet for Barolo and its cousins.
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