Ice Creams I Have Made Of Late
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Ice Creams I Have Made Of Late


I have grand plans for the Glace-A-Tron 6000 and its doorway into exotic ice cream experiments, but so far I have been driven by my lovely wife's requests. Here are a few ice creams that have been filling our freezer.

The Template
Grab your pens, folks: This is one of the few times you'll see a recipe here on OWF. This is the template I use for all my ice creams. It started as the basic recipe from Cook's Illustrated's out-of-print How to Make Ice Cream, but that recipe is too eggy, and I have replaced one egg yolk with an egg white on the advice of an ice-cream-fiend friend. This step can add a glassy texture to more delicate ice creams, so I'm thinking of trying a batch with 3 yolks and no white. For gelato, use 2 cups of milk and 1 cup of cream.

  1. Combine 1/2 c. sugar with milk and cream, stir to dissolve, and heat over medium-low flame until the temperature reaches 175°
  2. Meanwhile, combine 1/4 c. sugar with eggs and whisk until mixture is light and fluffy—or your arm's about to fall off, whichever comes first.
  3. When the dairy reaches 175°f, temper the egg mixture: Pull out 1/2 c. of the hot milk-cream mix, and add it to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Now add the eggs into the milk-cream mix, whisking constantly.
  4. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture reaches 185°.
  5. Remove from heat, push through a fine strainer, and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap, letting the plastic sit against the custard. Refrigerate overnight.
  6. Make ice cream. Freeze for several hours before servting.

Pistachio
Holy cats, this Cook's Illustrated-inspired ice cream was good. I toasted and ground a couple handfuls of shelled unsalted pistachios, and added them to the custard as it heated. Don't strain them out until just before you put the mix into the ice cream maker. Just before the machine finishes, stir in some candied pistachios and let them fold into the ice cream.

Chocolate
Cook's Illustrated's "Chocolate Truffle" ice cream tastes the way I expect chocolate ice cream to taste. Add 1/3 cup cocoa powder to the sugar and eggs, increase the amount of sugar by 1 tablespoon, and stir 4.5 oz. melted and cooled bittersweet chocolate into the hot custard. Some of that chocolate will harden overnight into microchips.

Fig
The Cook's Illustrated idea was weak. Rehydrate dried figs in hot water and mince? No. Use red wine and water, with some peppercorns tossed in for good measure. Purée the cooked figs in a food processor and stir in to the custard until it thickens.

Salted Caramel
I'm still tweaking this recipe, but my current incarnation is pretty good. Don't add sugar to the milk and cream. Caramelize 1 cup of sugar in a deep pot until it's nice and dark, just this side of molasses. Slowly add cold milk and cream (the mixture will bubble up), and then continue as normal. When the custard is made, add kosher salt to taste. Taste it again when the custard is at room temperature. At service, garnish with fleur de sel.





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