Cooking
WTN: 1994 Domaine aux Moines, Roche aux Moines, Savennieres, Loire, France
If you're one of my Bay Area readers, find an excuse to eat at Foreign Cinema soon. They have a 1994 Domaine aux Moines Savennières on their wine list for $45. Most casual drinkers don't get a chance to drink "old" white wines (a good Savennières can age for much longer when properly stored). Coincidentally, Alder just covered this wine in-depth, and he notes that the 1994 is the current release.
I didn't take careful tasting notes, but the wine has an oily minerality that suggests kerosene more than hard rocks, and it finishes with a subtle spiciness. The straightforward aromas it probably had in its youth have evolved into a complex bouquet with layers of intriguing scents. "Funky" is the word that came to my mind on the first sniff. You may not like this wine, but it's worth experiencing: Four of the five of us who drank it preferred it to the 2002 Savennières we had at the start of the meal, which had sherry aromas that suggested poor storage. The 1994 bottle didn't have as much acidity as I'd expect even in a 12-year-old Savennières, but it still has enough to make it food-friendly. I tasted it with a charcuterie platter.
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House Red Hunt: Summer 2006
Melissa and I recently went on a hunt for a "house red," an inexpensive red wine that pairs well with a wide range of foods. A wine we can afford to buy in "bulk" and open for the most casual of dinners. (As a couple who amass German...
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Wtn: 2001 Jamek "ried Achleiten", Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Osterreich
Photo by Melissa Schneider. A common belief among casual wine drinkers is that age improves any wine. Wine store employees and wine critics reinforce this by writing "drinks well now, or for the next five years."
In reality, most wine doesn't...
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Ordering Wine, The Waiter's Perspective
The excellent Waiter Rant has a good post about ordering wine. I disagree with some of his commenters, but only one of his points. As I say in the comments, when I'm approving wine I sniff, then swirl, then sniff. When you swirl, you kick up volatile...
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Wtn: 1995 "pagani Vineyard", Ridge, Alicante
The average time between buying a bottle of wine and drinking it is surprisingly low. My friend Mark recently suggested forty-eight minutes, but I don't know if that was in jest or if he read it somewhere. Everyone agrees that, whatever the actual...
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Jojo Wine Tasting - The Rhône
One of our favorite Oakland restaurants is Jojo on Piedmont Avenue. Curt and Mary Jo, the chefs and owners, have impressive pedigrees. Mary Jo was pastry chef at Chez Panisse for many years, Curt worked at Zuni for a time, and on and on. When they opened...
Cooking