Vinovation, The Art of Eating, Issue 73-74
When Ed asked me to research Vinovation for The Art of Eating, I went to my first appointment with an already-formed opinion. Clark Smith's wine consulting company provides a host of services to a huge chunk of the California wine industry, but the press knows him best—and demonizes him the most—for reverse osmosis. This process allows New World vintners to push wine against a filter and extract its alcohol and water, which they add back to create a final product with an "adjusted" alcohol level. Nine months ago, I would have agreed with any wine writer who described it as one manipulation too many.
Three appointments, a host of phone calls, and a small storm of emails later, I've changed my attitude. I'm not for excessive manipulation, but Clark is doing interesting work. In fact, I believe that his empirical knowledge will overturn the curriculum of enology schools around the world. Now, when someone points out that reverse osmosis isn't natural, I ask, "What is?" Critics who vilify Vinovation often don't mention or even notice sterile filtration, temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, or cultured yeasts, all of which are commonplace and far from a grape's "natural" inclination. My article, along with Melissa's photos of Smith and his company, appears in the latest issue of Ed's top-flight magazine. My subscription copy arrived today, but I haven't yet seen copies in stores.
I often tell you, and anyone who will listen, to subscribe to AoE, which I consider the best informed, most thoughtful food and wine magazine in America. Even more than normal, I urge you to buy this special double issue, a celebration of the magazine's 20th anniversary. Other articles include Ed Behr's interview with himself about AoE and its philosophy, a baguette piece that I have wanted to read ever since Ed mentioned it to me, a large feature on California olive oil, an ode to mead, a look at black and white truffles, and the usual hodgepodge of book reviews, notes and resources, and letters (including ones from Jack and Kevin).
- Keep Or Don't Keep: Magazines Worth Moving
So here it is: The final countdown (cue the Europe song). In two weeks, we will have no claim to our apartment; we will want nothing to do with our apartment. Ever again. Today, I culled magazines from my shelves in an attempt to reduce the amount of...
- Whence High Alcohol
Clark Smith, the head of Vinovation, has an Appellation America article about high alcohol levels in California wine. He looks at the complex array of factors that have led us to a world where every California wine has more than 14% alcohol. I see he’s...
- Clark Smith On Sweet Spots And Food
After my Vinovation piece came out in The Art of Eating, the magazine received a small flood of letters, some of which are published in the current issue. One of those came from Mark Anisman, who asked how a wine's sweet spot did or did not change...
- Various Notes
So there's this food blogger and she's on tour for her new cookbook. Maybe you've heard of her? The delightful and inspirational Clotilde Dusoulier, our community's biggest star, will be at Cody's Books on May 24 at 7:00 to talk about...
- These Silly Tastings
Numerous people have mentioned yet another wine tasting in which California wines beat out the French. What I keep wondering is not "why do the French keep losing" but "why do this at all?" Napa Cabernets. Bordeaux. Despite some surface...